Funaro&Camerlengo HOn30 SR&RL Caboose #556

[roughneck]

Now for a -useful- tip: In the instructions for one of the Canfield/McGlone collaborations, Bob McGlone suggests using Goo or a similar glue to frame up the sides of resin car kits. That glue gives you some working time. Then lock things into place with thin ACC. I've tried this on the last couple of resin kits, and it works quite nicely.

dave

Not for me, I stay away from Goo and Plibond types of glue. Some bad results. I might try Aleenes tacky because it has worked for many things and then kick it with ACC, will see.

CD

[deemery]

Goo and Pliobond can attack styrene as they out-gas, but I think resin doesn't have this problem. The problem with Tacky Glue is there's no chemical bond between the glue and the resin, which means that the ACC could stick to the glue, but the glue won't permanently stick to the resin. Therefore you could get "break loose" from such a joint.

But try it and let us know. In particular, if you could glue some car sides together with this technique and then see if the results aren't easy to break apart, that would be really good to know.

dave

[bparrish]

I have good luck with most of the major sorts of glues when you rough up the back of the casting. It's all about "tooth".

I do like CA sorts of glues as they go off quickly but pre-aligning is mandatory. The idea of two glues is an interesting one where one is used first to offer time to align and then kick slowly.

I also think that resins are unaffected by the gassing out of distilate based glues. I have built a lot of Westerfield box cars and have never had a problem with solvent types of glue reacting with the resin.

see ya
Bob

[roughneck]

Bob, dave

I was thinking about using the Aleens tacky similar to a tack weld, just a small amount in about three places to hold while positioning and then hit it with the ACC. These small dabs would be about 1/32" in length. I have some older tacky that has got thicker than new stuff and small amounts hold quick. Maybe because some of the water has evaporated, just thinkin out loud. I do need to experiment.

CD

[roughneck]

The next thing was attaching the end beams to the decking. I used some of the homemade cloths pin clamps because the old fat fingers sometimes get in the way. I can rest the clamps on the work bench to help steady the pieces for about 10 sec until set.

end beam & deck

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CD

[roughneck]

The endbeams and plateforms are attached to the main floor and a trial fit of one side and one end showed that the body was not going to sit low enough on the finished caboose. I like the New England two footers because they ride low. A hunkered down look is what I'm working towards. The actual cars sit much lower than I can acheive and still operate through the 18" radius curves on my modules but some compromise is in order. The side sills would be visible if I did not notch the end walls.

ends

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The next pieces were not shown in the illustration or even listed in the directions. I had a plan of caboose # 556 from an old Gaz and figured they were to support the end plateform and used to attach the steps. After a trial fit the four pieces needed to be modified.

extensions

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The top one in the photo is as supplied and the one pointed to is as modified. These are attached to the outer edge of the side sill, the bottom of the plateform and the end beam.

extension attached 1

plateform3.JPG (46.66 KiB) Viewed 315 times

The same for both sides.

more to follow,

CD

[roughneck]

Time to start making this thing look like a caboose. I like to attach one end and one side to make an L shape. Rough the edges again that will be joined and use a small square to hold pieces in position. I put my opti visor on and bring the work light close to the assembly area. If you can't see what ya doin how ya to be accurate, my teachers always preached. One or two practice runs without glue to make sure nothing moves and then apply the ACC and away we go.

attach

gluesidend.JPG (32.49 KiB) Viewed 301 times

Second side and end same as first.

CD

[roughneck]

Next is the coupola. Straight forward, four sides, that's it. Getting them lined up, that is another story. I used some of my homebrew clips, these help when big fat fingers are around. To help with holding everything square I added a floor. Assembly same as main body, one end and one side to make an L, and then when both L's are dry make the coupola. Made a paper pattern for the floor and then cut plastic from a scrap sheet, sand to fit and then glue.

coupola

coupola.JPG (23.1 KiB) Viewed 281 times

The main body is flimsy because of the thin castings. It needs some stiffeners added. Cut some styrene to the correct width of the inside of the body. Place inside and trace the roof arch using one of the ends. Cut and sand to fit.

Stiffener

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When dry test fit the coupola. A light sanding might be needed to allow it to squeeze inside the main body.

Trim?

coupolatrim.JPG (22.67 KiB) Viewed 281 times

Nail files work for this quite well. Go slowly, it's difficult to add material.

body , stiffeners

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CD

[roughneck]

After all this trial fitting and sanding the coupola should look something like this.

Trial fit

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CD

[ReadingBob]

Excellent tutorial so far Cuzzin David! Looking good.