Ok, here's my Wicked Wanda's build March 2012

[ranny9]

I have 4 of the 5 roof pieces done and installed. Now I need advice on how to finish the valleys where the roofs meet.
Choices are:
1) leave them alone
2) use a small piece of scale weathered wood
3) use "tar"
4) use scale wood and "tar"

roof4.jpg (179.35 KiB) Viewed 154 times

[DaveInTheHat]

I'd use a strip of a brown paper bag, construction paper or metal to fill the valleys and make a ridge cap. If you do a Google image search for 'shake roof' you can see it done several ways.

[deemery]

I vote for 'nothing' in the valleys at this point. Often the prototype would put some sort of flashing (roofing paper, copper, lead, etc) in the valley and then put the shingles on top of that. but since your shingles are so tight against each other, I'd just assume there's flashing underneath. Adding flashing -on top of the shingles- wouldn't look right to me.

Just be sure to heavily weather those 'valleys' since that's where dirt, etc will collect. (We see that on our house. Our medium brown - cedar color asphalt shingles butt against each other with flashing underneath. About 3" on either side of the valley line is much darker than the rest of the roof.)

dave

[ranny9]

I vote for 'nothing' in the valleys at this point. Often the prototype would put some sort of flashing (roofing paper, copper, lead, etc) in the valley and then put the shingles on top of that. but since your shingles are so tight against each other, I'd just assume there's flashing underneath. Adding flashing -on top of the shingles- wouldn't look right to me.

Just be sure to heavily weather those 'valleys' since that's where dirt, etc will collect. (We see that on our house. Our medium brown - cedar color asphalt shingles butt against each other with flashing underneath. About 3" on either side of the valley line is much darker than the rest of the roof.)

dave

Thanks Dave, and Dave. I think I'll do nothing with the valleys, as I'll probably make a mess. THANKS!

[Rail and Tie]

I vote for 'nothing' in the valleys at this point. Often the prototype would put some sort of flashing (roofing paper, copper, lead, etc) in the valley and then put the shingles on top of that. but since your shingles are so tight against each other, I'd just assume there's flashing underneath. Adding flashing -on top of the shingles- wouldn't look right to me.

Just be sure to heavily weather those 'valleys' since that's where dirt, etc will collect. (We see that on our house. Our medium brown - cedar color asphalt shingles butt against each other with flashing underneath. About 3" on either side of the valley line is much darker than the rest of the roof.)

dave

What he said. Looks good and scale as is. Anything over top, won't look scale, unless you were trying to fix a leak? Then to do it the redneck way, strap a tiny blue tarp over the area and hold it down with little iddy biddy rocks!

Looks good and tight the way it is!

D

[Janbouli]

I don't think there would ever be a cap in a valley, it would do exactly the opposite of what one would want, water would flow under the cap and under the shingles. Just my 2 eurocents

[ReadingBob]

I too, would vote for nothing since the seam is so clean and tight. The whole build looks super Randy!

[ranny9]

I too, would vote for nothing since the seam is so clean and tight. The whole build looks super Randy!

Thanks again to all...I didn't do anything in the valley, will weather it later. But I did put a ridge cap, and used a bit of the Bar Mills paper, some of the edges where the shingles are not cut, or printed. I still have to do the last roof piece, the one with the chimney. And the final ridge cap.

[gnatshop]

Grooves, Hooves, Rooves, or Rooftops - it don't matter!

We're still here and want to see more as you finish this build.
We won't go away until you're finished!

[ranny9]

Has anyone tried mixing in latex house paint to pre-color plaster/hydrocal/sculptamold used for landscaping your dioramas? If you did, did it affect the drying time?