Aluminum Corrugated Siding

[rebel]

Why would the fasteners go on the highs and not the valleys? Couldn't they work loose easier since there's such a large gap between the substrate and the panel?

Jeff

There is usually a board there and less chance of a leak on the highs, water seeks the lowest point.

[dtommy]

Tommy.

Corrugated siding is a really fun medium. I'm scratching a knock off of the Mt Albert lumber kit as they only offer it in O scale and I'm HO. I'm most of the way through the lumber shed and just put the siding on it this afternoon. I'll do the chalk rusting of it later tonight.

Depending on the era that you model.... early siding was actually sheet iron and only later was it zinc coated galvanized sheet steel. The issue here is that they rust differently. Iron rust to a very dark red-brown where as steel is a bit more orange. Fun stuff to model.

I spray flat Testors gray primer on both sides of the Campbell sheets. When dry I fog from about three feet up Testors flat black and then an even lighter fog of tan. The rest is all in the chalks.

I use Walthers Goo to hold the siding on as not much else likes to stick to it. It goes on fast and hides well.

I'll post a photo tomorrow when I have the rust on it.

see ya
Bob

Bob,

I look forward to seeing your photo. I am using the corrugated siding from K&S. I have sprayed the sheets with auto primer gray. I started cutting and applying them last night to an old Con-Cor grain elevator kit I purchased many years ago. It's a nice looking structure, but it doesn't have the look of grain elevators in the area I model. The corrugated siding will "dress" it up nicely. I do not have any "Goo" on hand, so I have been attaching them with CA. No problems so far!

A little bit of useless trivia regarding the grain elevator kit. I purchased that kit at a train show in St. Charles, Missouri when Dave Frary was traveling with the Pennsy and Clinchfield layouts. It was really nice to see a couple of layouts I had read about in MR. Oh yeah, it was nice to meet Dave too!

Tom C.

[LongHornCaddy]

I agree with Bob, 4'-0" width works well and makes less panels to cut. I use double tack scrapbook adhesive. It's easy to work with and you only have to cut a single piece for each roof section. It's very sticky and doesn't give way as time goes on




Cruisin,


Long Horn Caddy

[bparrish]

I've not used any corrugated material other than what is available from Campbell. Self sticky stuff sounds cool but I'm not sure what to do with it in a situation of a loafing shed where both sides might be visible.

Regarding securing on highs or lows......... In the west were some locations have very high snow packs.... there is a lot of thawing that goes on underneath the snow. The water is often trapped there for extended periods of time. Screws in the lows would put them in the standing water and a nearly guaranteed leak to the inside.

Much of the sheet steel materials available now are not so much the traditional corrugated materials but rather rolled steel where the raised areas are nearly square in profile and spaced 6 - 8 or 10 inches apart. There are a lot of profiles and colors available. Here is a click location that shows easily one such profile option.

http://www.michianabuildingsupplies.com/index.htm

There are tons of options and I'm sure there are a lot of regional requirements that would beg this or that modification. We have in the mountains of Idaho roofs that are engineered for 12 to 15 foot snow loads. We don't get anything like that in Boise but the surrounding areas must take this in consideration.

For me... I model 1897 to 1914 so it is corrugated sheet iron. Amazingly enough........ there are still structures out here with that stuff that is still servicable. Our climate is so dry..........summer humidities are around 15 to 20%.......... that this stuff survives long after a wetter climate would have disolved most anything.

see ya
Bob

[dtommy]

New project:

I had to modify the structure a bit before beginning. I forgot to take a picture of the side I am working on, but this side is about the same:

100_3026.JPG (79.36 KiB) Viewed 992 times

Here's a completed side:

100_3031.JPG (118.94 KiB) Viewed 992 times

I cut the corrugated siding into 10' long by 4' wide strips. One side down, three to go!

Tom C.

[bparrish]

Here are some photos of the lumber shed I spoke of above. It is a scratch to go after what Mt Albert released recently for O Scale. I am re-doing all of my structures in Nampa as they are mostly Kibri plastic from a million years ago and they are now out of place given some of the stuff that is around them now.

It is Campbell corrugated siding cut to 3 foot widths and 8 foot lengths. I sprayed the siding with flat gray primer and then drizzled flat black from about three feet above. It is secured to the wooden structure with Goo and then rusted with Bragdon chalks. I model a period that really used sheet iron rather than aluminum so I rusted the panels to a dark red that does not come over the photos too well.

Lumber shed 1

Lumber shed 1.jpg (225.13 KiB) Viewed 962 times

Lumber shed 2

Lumber shed 2.jpg (195.4 KiB) Viewed 962 times

Lumber shed 3

Lumber shed 3.jpg (187.45 KiB) Viewed 962 times

See ya
Bob

[dtommy]

Thanks for posting the pics, Bob! Nice looking structure!

Tom C.

[Zephyrus52246]

Great looking shed, Bob.

Jeff

[postalkarl]

Hi:

I believe the old Campbell corrugated came in lengths of 4, 6, 8, 10, And 12 feet. You would cut it to a width of 3 feet. I like their sideing better than anyone elses as it is finer and more rto scale.

Karl

[bparrish]

Yes Campbell comes in a lot of sizes. It is not always available. I'm not sure how consistent the current owner is at running things. It comes in packages of about 6 or 7 strips, about 6 (real) inches long and widths that scale to 6-8-10-12 feet long. The Corrugates run across the strips with the scale foot length. They tell you not to use a scissors to cut it. They are right... it crushes the corrugates. I use a straight edge and a super sharp new blade.. Also, I don't press down hard and try and make the cut in one pass. I let the blade take a chunk at a time. Works really well.

I pre paint all strips before I cut and apply anything. Brushing most paints don't cover too well as nothing really likes to stick to this polished up metal. I noted above how I paint stuff. Chalks go on after assembly.

see ya
Bob