Jimmy D's Boilermakers Build

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I was able to eak out a little more on Boilermakers this afternoon.

I decided that the main brewery upper level platform just can't be left open without some type of safty measure. What a very bad accident waiting to happen! Just imagine Jimmy's insurance premiums if the company knew the little people were leaving the lift area open so others can fall off and injure themselves.

I drilled a small hole in each of the corner posts where the pulley hoist is located. I then place an eye bolt into the holes and secured them with ACC. I then painted them with Floquils Gunmetal. I then used a short piece of Campbells chain and hung each end through the eye bolts. I then secured each side with a little ACC.

I used a Mico Engineering track nail and pushed it threw the wall under the hoist assembly. I then made a couple of loops over the nail with the chain and secured it with a little ACC.

Eye bolts added to each corner post.

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Campbells chain added to the eye bolts.

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I then glued the hoist assembly to the roof in the location I marked earlier. The location for the hoist is over the opening on the second level and directly over the nail on the wall.

Hoist glued to the roof and chain strung through the pulley.

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Now we have a hoist assembly that is believable for the brewery!

This will be my last post for a few days. I have family coming in this weekend and I'm assuming I won't get much done on the build until Monday or Tuesday! See you then!

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Well, I thought I was going to finish the build two weeks ago but you know how it goes when you plan. Mr. Murphy shows up and that's that!

Jimmy includes in the kit some very nice wood (plastic) crates and wood (plastic) barrels. The wood barrels were a no brainer, just snip them off the sprues and glue them together. Picture is of them off the sprues.

Twenty barrels for Boilermakers.

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The wood crates were another story! At first glance everything appears normal.

All is well for the moment!

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And then ------- nothing is as it seems. As I removed the pieces from the sprues, I began to glue a few of them together. I then noticed that some pieces appeared to me missing. On the back of each piece, there is a number. So I figured the first crate would be 1,2,3 and 4 for the sides and 5 for the ends. Well, that worked but then, as I said nothing is as it seemed. I had a hard time understanding the numbering system on the back and found some pieces were indeed missing. I glued together what I could and moved on!

NOTE: This may be a kit packing issue or a supplier issue, not sure but for the time it took me to glue what I could, I could have taken a small block of real wood and edge glued the scale 1X3's to the sides.

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In the next photo, note the three crate sides on the left and then look at the one on the right. They are supposed to be the same. They aren't, so there is no way a crate can be built from these four pieces.

Three on the left match but not the one on the right!

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This next photo shows you what I was able to make from the crate pieces and what was left that I couldn't piece toghther.

Glued what would fit and moved on!

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I forgot to build the office shed so here is that step. This little structure goes on the back of the office on the track side. It is made from card stock and scored at the corners. The instructions call for the walls to be scored lightly on the lines and folded in to form the three walls of the shed. Then the modeler is supposed to glue the bracing in the corners. I don't think this is the best way to glue and secure the three walls.

When I scored the corners on the lines as shown below, I also noticed the "folding in of the card stock". This prevents you from getting a good corner brace glued in close and tight!

Office shed scored and folded on the score lines.

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Inside corner card stock folding in!

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I decided to actually cut the three walls apart at the scoring lines. This would give me a clean sharp corner on the card stock to glue on the braces.

Walls cut apart to get a better glued brace.

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I placed the side walls on the bracing and marked where the angle would be at the top. I then marked the angle in red and then cut them in the chopper.

Braces marked and cut to match the slope of the side wall.

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Bracing marked where needed to cut.

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Fast forward as we all have seen how a wall is braced with the stripwood.

I covered the card stock walls with black tar paper supplied with the kit. Jimmy also included in the kit a section of Campbells Aluminum sheeting. I chose this as my roof material of choice for the office shed. The rest of the structure had planty of Campbell shingles so I thought the roofing on the shed was due for something new and different.

Campbell Aluminum roofing added to the shed.

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The next photo shows where the office shed fits on the back of the office.

Shed fits on the track side of the office.

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The shed walls, door and roof still need to be weathered.

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I finished the warehouse second story platform and added the ladder. The ladder was made from unweathered stripwood to match the ladder shown in Jimmy's photos at the beginning of the thread.

Ladder and second story platform finished.

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The next three photos are just extra of the structure to date.

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The kit comes with 6 small plastic light shades and wire hooks.

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The wire fits through a small hole in the top of the shade. You can use one of the two angles as I did, seen below, or you can use all the same. I painted the shades with green, the wire with Floquils Old Silver and two with Floquils Gunmetal.

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In the pilot model shown in the first page of this thread, I felt the main smoke stack was too low in height for the side. I wanted mine, er, Jimmy's to raise just a little above the copula. A stack this high would look great with a few guilde wires to hole it in place. I took the stack pipe, Evergreen Styrene, tube supplied in the kit and glued a plastic/styrene strip around the tube. I determined where the band should be and edge glued this end of the strip to the pipe. When dry, I wrapped the strip around the tube and glued it in place. I then cut it to fit flush! I then drilled three small holes in the band and glued in eyebolts for the guilde wires.

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I then determined where on the roof I wanted to install the stack. Once I made my decision, I marked the location where the base would fit on the roof. I then cut the shingles off so the stack base would fit flush on the roof. I then cut the hole in the roof to accept the stack.

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I then painted the base with Floquils Grimy Black and glued it to the roof. I then installed the stack and glued it to the base plate. I then drilled a small hole in each corner of the plate and glued a nut and bolt assembly in the holes. I then weathered the stack and base with rust colored powders from Bragdon.

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The next few photos show the roof stack from different angles.

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I then added two eye bolts to the side of the roof and one on the roof next to the cupola. I then used small diameter thread and added the thread as guide wire to the stack.

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I did weather the roof with several different colors of dusting powders. I used some from Micro Mark and Bragdon. I used Grimy Black, Dirty Dirt, Rustic Rust, Burnt Sienna, Faded Grime and Dust for the colors and randomly applied them to the roof shingles and smoke stack. You will be able to see the overall affect in later photos in the thread.

I then moved tot he warehouse roof. The bright red was subdued with dusting chalks and powders. I used Light Grey, Grimy Black and Dirt Tan on the tarpaper roof.

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I started the install the roof sign but first added the three roof sign braces to the roof. I marked where they would be located on the roof and glued on the supports. Of course, I had to add my nut and bolts to the supports.

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I then built the warehouse roof sign. The sign I used comes with the kit. When Jim built the diorama Boilermakers, he used the Black and White sign for the roof. I liked the one I used so we could see a different sign with more color. I cut it out and lightly sanded both sides of the sign. I built the sign billboard per the instructions.

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Back of sign boards below!

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Continued